b'MalaysiaTALK TO OUR EXPERTChris Cookchris.cook@hayesandjarvis.co.uk020 8106 2383Mangrove forest, BorneoBornean sun bear Pygmy elephantProboscis monkey Orangutansin nipa or banana leaves) to Malaysias national dish, nasi lemakpromise of an assured meal. Watching these endangered (coconut rice with spicy sambal). The evening ended with a walkcreatures glide out of the jungle and linger nearby felt magical. across a bridge to gaze up at the Petronas Towers. By the end,Next, we visited the Sun Bear Conservation Centre nearby, I was stuffed and happy. KL may be a big city, but exploring itwhich shelters rescued sun bears. through its food culture gave me a personal connection. For a truly immersive nature-based experience, I traveled to KL has many contrasts: upscale malls in Bukit Bintang, the retrothe Kinabatangan River, surrounded by protected forests and charm of Kwai Chai Hong, and the bustling Brickfields district,a sanctuary that hosts an incredible concentration of wildlife. home to Little India and the colourful Sri MahamariammanFrom Sandakan, a one-hour boat ride deep into the jungle Temple. The energy was busy, buzzing late into the night, yetled to our lodge on the banks of the river. We were far from welcoming, family-friendly, and safe.civilization, surrounded by rainforest, and for the next few days, From the urban sprawl of Kuala Lumpur, my colleague and Iall our safaris were by boat. Each day, we went on morning and flew to the vast wilderness of Borneo, where life moves at aafternoon/evening safaris, followed by night walks around the gentler rhythm. After a break at a Kota Kinabalu beach, welodge after dinner. Blending into the environment, the lodge headed to Sandakan, jumping-off point for wildlife experiences. was simple but comfortable, with stilted cabins connected by PHOTO: KATE MAYER (ELEPHANT)Our first wildlife experience was a night walk at the Sepilokhardwood walkways and a sundeck overlooking the rivera Rainforest Discovery Centre. Light rain dripped through thepeaceful spot to unwind.canopy as our guide pointed out creatures Id never imaginedWe were there for the wildlife, especially the chance to see seeing. Under torchlight, we spotted a flying lemur, roostingorangutans in the wild, but what made it unforgettable were kingfishers, scorpions, frogs, and even a slow loristhe worldsthe surprises. For instance, we encountered a pygmy elephant only venomous primate. The next morning, our visit to Sepilokright in front of our boat when its head just popped right out of Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre gave us a chance to observethe grass. It was such a special experience! We also saw many orangutans up close. Being the wet, non-fruiting season, thetropical birds, proboscis monkeys (found only in Borneo), and at apes came readily to the feeding platforms, drawn by thenight, bats and birds, such as the hunting buffy fish owl. Thanks TRUE VOYAGES \x1a25'